SUPER SKIN IN FOUR SIMPLE STEPS

While we can all appreciate a good concealer or botox, ignoring the underlying problems by covering them up is no answer. Truly beautiful skin can only come from a good basic skin care routine.Clear, beautiful, healthy skin doesn’t just ‘happen,’ it comes effort and a good skin care routine. Surprisingly, many women today rely on cosmetics and surgical procedures to hide or repair the damage that has occurred from years of improper skin maintenance.

Most dermatologist and skin experts recommend consistently following a daily skin care routine. This does not have to be complicated or time-consuming.  Your daily routine can be performed in as little as five to ten minutes.

Four Simple Steps

* Cleanse
* Tone / Treat
* Moisturize
* Protect

A typical skin care routine includes the following steps: washing/cleansing, toning / treating (optional depending on skin type), moisturizing and sun protection.

Optimize for your skin type
The steps of the basic routine should be adjusted to fit your skin type. Your skin type may change with the season, diet and age. Skin tends to be oilier in the summer and drier in the winter. Menopause often brings about a change from oily or normal to dry skin. Conversely, a shift from a low-fat diet to that rich in certain fats (particularly essential fatty acids) may turn dry skin to normal. Skin pigmentation affects the degree to which you need sun protection. While sun damages any skin, the damage is far less in dark-skinned people. Conversely, fair skinned people need to be particularly meticulous about sun protection by minimizing sun exposure, choosing an effective sunscreen and applying it frequently and consistently.

Depending on your skin type, you may want to use your routine once in the morning and again before you sleep. Those with dry and/or sensitive skin may do better with once a day washing/cleansing while moisturizing two or more times a day. Exfoliation, to remove excess oils and prevent acne or blackheads, is also recommended in some cases, but exercise caution as daily exfoliation may be excessive and can lead to chronic irritation. Exfoliation once or twice a week is usually sufficient. Younger skin, like that in your 20’s and 30’s will have a fast natural epidermal turnover may need little to no exfoliation.

Cleansing
Cleaning facial skin is even more important than cleaning your body. Your face, unlike your body, is exposed to elements all day long. Dirt, pollution and oil from hands all accumulate on the epidermal layer and can clog pores and cause acne eruptions or inflammation. Like all skin care products, the best cleanser for you will be determined by your skin type. If you suffer from oily or acne-prone skin, you may benefit from an oil-free gel cleanser or one containing salicylic acid. Mature or dry skin will do best with a cream cleanser to help retain moisture. Once your face and neck are cleansed, rinse with lukewarm water and pat your skin lightly with a towel.

Toning / Treating
Toning can consist of using a store-bought toner, astringent or simple Witch Hazel. Toning or treating will balance the ph level of the skin and remove any residual dirt or oil not picked up from your cleanser. For those over the age of thirty, adding a well-selected treatment or two with scientifically proven active ingredients can further improve your results. Treatment can mean anything from skin rejuvenation products, skin discoloration items and oil absorbing agents to applying medicines for acne or eczema. If you suffer from multiple skin conditions, select an initial treatment aimed at the broadest improvement and then fine tune things from there.
Be aware of applying products to un-cleansed skin as the penetration of active ingredients will be greatly reduced. If you cleanse, moisturize and then apply advanced products, the penetration of active ingredients may still be reduced because the moisturizer has blocked some the entryways.

Moisturize
Moisturizers are essential to keep skin cells plump and hydrated. Hydrated skin will show fewer lines, wrinkles and imperfections. Even if you have oily or acne prone skin, you may still need some hydration. Look for gel-based moisturizers or lightweight formulations. Many medications and treatments appropriate for dealing with acne or oily skin automatically are drying. Don’t make the mistake of drastically drying out your skin until it is a challenge to repair. During the fall and winter months your skin may be even more vulnerable thanks to reduced humidity from indoor heating and excessive hot showers or baths.

Apply your moisturizer when your skin is clean, warm and still slightly moist. Since many active treatments have moisturizing ingredients, you may be able to skip a separate moisturizer. If you feel that you need additional moisturizing, wait a few minutes for the active treatments to absorb, and then apply your favorite moisturizer over it.

Protect
Wearing sunscreen or sun protection EVERY DAY is the proven best way to block harmful UV rays and diminish formation of wrinkles, skin discolorations and to reduce your chances of developing skin cancer. A good UVA+UVB sunscreen should be applied on top of your moisturizer or other treatments as a final step of your routine whenever sun exposure is expected.  Sunscreens come in a wide variety of bases, from those meant for oily skin to hydrating versions. Those with sensitivities to chemical sunscreens can choose natural Zinc Oxide formulations. Protective clothing can also now be improved thanks to new laundry treatments with UV protectant for widespread areas of the body mistakenly thought to be protected by your clothing.

Some skin care products or cosmetics contain added UV blockers, but they may not be enough, using a separate, specially formulated sunscreen is proven to be more effective.

And that’s it! Cleanse, Tone / Treat, Moisturize and Protect. Use these four simple steps to achieve beautiful, healthy skin. For a lifetime of skin care that can help leave your skin looking its very best, see your healthy skin as a clean canvass upon which to paint any improvements.

Author: Rachelle Dupree
Vivoderm Natural Skincare

Sun Protection to Prevent Aging and Cancer

Zinc Sun Care and Summer Skin

Summer is rapidly approaching and it is time to once again stock up on sunscreens and hats. Sunrays can have a detrimental effect on the skin, so it is very important to protect the skin from too much sun exposure. Sun damage to the skin can show up almost immediately and will also appear over time. Different sunrays have different effects on the skin. A great way to remember the difference is by the letter A or B. UVA rays or ‘aging rays’ cause wrinkles, pigmentation and cancer. UVB rays or ‘burning rays’ are the rays that cause a tan and sunburn. These rays also age the skin but do not penetrate as deep as UVA rays.

To protect the skin from harmful sun exposure it is important to use a sunscreen that has both UVA and UVB protection. These sunscreens are commonly known as dual spectrum sunscreens. It is also important to check for ingredients that absorb and block sunrays. Ingredients such as oxybenzo absorb sunrays while zinc oxide actually blocks the rays. It is also important to look for sunscreens that are non comedogenic and non acnegenic which means that the sunscreen will not clog pores or promote acne. A SPF or sun protection factor of 15 or higher is recommended. A generous application is needed in order to attain protection; most people do not apply sunscreen liberally enough.

The SPF indicates how long you can be exposed to the sun before burning. For example, if your skin will burn within 10 minutes of sun exposure with no sun protection you can be exposed to the sun for 150 minutes with a sun protection factor of 15 before burning.

To estimate how long you can be exposed to the sun before burning, multiply the probable time you can be exposed to the sun with no sun protection before burning and multiply it by the SPF on the label of the sunscreen. Multiple applications throughout the day are necessary in order to be protected, and it is recommended to reapply every two hours, as sweating and water activities may rub off the sun screen. Sunscreens do more than just protect skin from burning, so reapplication is necessary to shield the skin from other harmful damage like premature age spots, wrinkles and fine lines.

Regular sunscreen use will protect the skin from burning, premature aging and possible skin cancer. It is important to make sunscreen use as much a part of your daily routine as brushing your teeth. As summer is approaching it is even more important to wear sunscreen as the sunrays are stronger and more harmful during this time of year.

Summertime Skincare Tips

Sun damage or photo damage produces both skin cancers as well as photo-aging. Photo-aging shows itself on the skin as wrinkling, scaling, dryness, and mottled pigmentation. Ultra-violet light is absorbed by skin, which in turn produces a photo-chemical reaction.

The UVA light is absorbed by both DNA as well as urocanic acid, the photo-chemical reaction produces oxidation of both DNA, nucleide acid, and protein, as well as lipids, this is known as oxidative damage. Anti-oxidants have been evolved to protect against, and reverse some of the damage produced by sunlight. An anti-oxidant mechanism is very advanced in plants that protect against the damage from sun exposure.

Oxidation:

Oxidation is produced by reactive oxygen molecules. The DNA absorbs ultra-violet light mostly in the UVB (290-320 manometres) range. This produces damage mainly within the epidermis. UVA (320-400 manometres) penetrates deeper into the skin and produces damage in the epidermis, the dermis as well as affecting blood vessels. The UVA has a much more oxidizing effect on cells.

The carcinogenic or cancer forming effects of ultra-violet B produce mutations within the DNA. This initiates tumors within the epidermis. The UVA promotes these tumors as it has much more oxidizing stress on the skin than UVB. It may as a result be more cytotoxic and immunosuppressive.

Sunscreens:

Sunscreens certainly protect against ultra-violet light, the sunburning spectrum is UVB and sunscreens are very effective. Ultra-violet A is the most difficult to protect against. It is important to realize that the SPF numbers are calculated with an amount of sunscreen on skin that exceeds what most of us put on our own skin.

The SPF is calculated with a quantity of 2mg. of sunscreen per centimetre2. Most people will put on about half to one quarter of this when used as sun protection. Unfortunately, low quantities of sunscreen of per centimtre2 will have minimal sun protective effects. Usually if 5mg. per cm.2 of sunscreen is applied to the skin, the sun protective factor is in the region of an SPF of 3.

Anti-Oxidants:

Anti-oxidants play a significant part in the protective and repair mechanisms within animals and plants. This can be achieved by anti-oxidants that are produced within the skin itself or by those consumed or applied from plants. The anti-oxidant effects can be divided into those that have their protection through enzymes, and those that tend to reduce the quantity of hydrogen peroxide as well as lipid hydroperoxides.

Tip #1: Use A Powerful Sunscreen

Tip #2: Moisturize Your Skin

Tip #3: Exfoliate Your Skin

Tip #4: Hydrate Your Body

Tip #5: Shave Properly

Your Skin And The Effects Of The Sun

Sun damage of the skin, also known as photo damage can be either acute, as in a sunburn or more commonly, chronic, seen as gradual changes in the skin caused by an accumulation of sun exposure throughout one’s life. Chronic photo damage results in either a cosmetic change in the skin’s appearance called photo aging, or changes that are of medical and health concerns such as pre-cancerous lesions and skin cancers. The evidence is very strong that ultra-violet light is the cause of most of the changes that we consider to be associated with aging of the skin.

Sunshine, although essential for health and well being, is certainly a hazard for the skin. For many people it feels good to spend time outdoors and this makes it difficult to avoid excessive exposure to the sun. Most of the sun exposure we accumulate throughout our lives, is thought to be the effect of multiple short periods of time outside. If the ozone depletion continues this may also increase our lifetime exposure.

Those living in sunny areas are clearly at risk for photo damage, as are those with occupations that require working outdoors. Activities such as skiing, sailing, and gardening can contribute to chronic photo damage. Even one-time sun exposure, causing a tan, results in damage to the skin. There is no such thing as a ’safe’ tan.

Individuals with fair skin are clearly at greater risk although sun damage can occur in all skin types. Tanning studios are popular amongst many and this also adds to an accumulation of photo damage.

Smoking is another environmental factor that contributes to premature aging of the skin. Early recognition of sun damage will provide a better chance of reversal of the cosmetic appearance as well as reducing the number of skin cancers.

Treatment For Sun Damaged Skin

OTC Treatment:

There are a number of products and treatments available to try to reverse some of the signs of sun damage. These include preparations available over the counter, prescription medications and medical procedures.

The use of products containing alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid and lactic acid may have a smoothing effect on the skin. We also know that vitamin C preparations will also have modest effects on reversing the appearance of sun damage.

These products will have benefit after they have been used for many months. They peel off the dead surface of the epidermis, which allows more ultraviolet light to penetrate so sun protection is most important when these products are used. These products can be used in conjunction with prescription vitamin A preparations.

Medical Treatments:

Tretinoin (creams and gels):

Tretinoin creams and gels have been documented as reversing sun damage, smoothing of the skin may occur within a number of weeks. There is some thickening of the epidermis as well as the dermis. The increased pigmentation may be reduced by inhibiting epidermal melanin content. If this product is used over many month or years there can be a visible reduction in the wrinkling and fine lines.

Tazarotene:

Tazarotene is the newest product shown to have advantages in reversing sun damage. It is also a retinoid or a vitamin A product that was initially used for the condition of psoriasis. It is also effective in the treatment of acne and has shown to be of significant benefit in reversing chronic sun damage or photo aging.

Chemical peels:

Chemical Peels are procedures that remove the upper parts of the skin allowing recovery and re-growth of the surface. This relies on initially wounding the skin which stimulates growth of fresher, newer looking skin. The peels can either be superficial or quite deep into the dermis. Superficial peels include glycolic acid preparations.

The deeper peels such as trichloroacetic acid and phenol are used less often. These produce more benefit but also carry an increased risk of pigmentary changes or possibly very superficial scarring. Recovery is quicker with the more superficial peels and may take weeks with the deeper procedures. The peels treat fine lines, age spots and uneven pigmentation.

Laser surgery:

The use of dermabrasion has diminished. This was performed by mechanically peeling off the skin surface with a metallic rotating instrument and then supporting the skin as it healed.

Laser brasion has been used over the last decade with quite significant results. The laser essentially vaporizes the skin away in very thin layers. The CO2 laser was first used and later the Erbium Yag laser became more popular as it produced less heat damage to the skin, which meant a more superficial layer of damage and a faster recovery.

The disadvantage of these procedures which essentially peel the surface of the skin allowing renewed growth of skin, which has less of a photo-damaged appearance, is the lengthy healing time. There is considerable redness for the first 10 days that usually requires time off work. The risk of prolonged redness and some whitening of the skin are also observed in some.

Non-Ablative Laser Surgery is a new development in the treatment of photo damage. These procedures involve the use of a broad-spectrum intense pulse light or laser, which is used repeatedly on the skin. This heats the dermis and encourages collagen production. It can also minimize some of the redness from broken blood vessels and diminish the hyper-pigmentation, which may be a consequence of photodamage.

Pulse Dye lasers that are used for red birthmarks or rosacea also have a benefit in photo damage in that they heat the skin, encouraging production of collagen with subsequent smoothing of the skin. These lasers also reduce the red vessels that often can be of cosmetic concern.

Skin fillers:

Skin fillers can be used for individuals with deep lines and wrinkles. These include collagen or hyaluronic acid. These are useful for lines that are seen in the resting phase. These have gained popularity. Collagen purified from the skin of cows is injected into skin wrinkles to fill in the depression. The benefit lasts for 3-6 months.It is usually used for correcting the naso-labial folds or deep smile lines or crows feet.

The treatment is usually well tolerated but there is usually some stinging or burning. Slight swelling and redness may be transient after treatment. It is essential that a small quantity of collagen be injected into a test area of skin weeks before the treatment to ensure that there is no allergy to the product.

Artecoll is collagen which has been impregnated with minute spheres of methylmethacrylate. This gives a long lasting effect to the injection. It appears that the injected collagen dissolves allowing the skins own collagen to grow on to these tiny beads. It is used for deeper lines, acne scars, smile lines as well as for enhancing lip fullness.

Hylaform and Restylane are injectable gels of Hyaluronic acid. This is part of the ground substance or material that collagen lies in within the dermis. Its production is diminished with age allowing the skin to wrinkle. These are introduced into the skin to fill in the defect that allows the wrinkling to occur. Allergy is not a concern with these. There may be some redness and swelling after the treatment but persistent redness is rare.

Botox:

Individuals with wrinkling in the glabella and on the forehead can benefit from this also. This is done by inactivating the muscles under the skin that produce lines and wrinkles. These are not the types of wrinkles that are the result of sundamage. There is no change the quality of sun-damaged skin.

Everyday skincare for dry, wrinkled or sun-damaged skin

Many of us, women especially, can relate to the phrase, “I just don’t have the time.” Conversely, if you grew up in any generation or location that frowned upon wearing makeup or using ‘beauty products’ as ‘unnatural’, you might have recently had second thoughts as those lines began to show a little too much, or those dark spots were just getting darker.

You have lived long enough to know “beauty isn’t everything,” but the truth is, when it starts to fade, boy, does it sure seem more important!

Regardless of the circumstance that finally brought you to shock the last time you looked in the mirror, the good news is; there are always second chances when it comes to taking care of your skin. The older you are, the more important it is to get started with a quality skin care regimen.

Three simple steps can aid your skin back the face you knew yesterday. You might have heard this before, but here it is again…just in case you need a refresher.

1. Cleanse - but gently. Too many professional skin care products strip your facial skin of the natural elements it needs to keep your skin soft and supple. Using a mild cleanser with a very light, delicate scent that won’t leave your face feeling tight and dry. For damaged, wrinkled skin, a moisturizing cleanser or cream cleanser is best.

2. Exfoliate - Many exfoliating products using sand or walnut shells can be too harsh to use daily - try to find a gentle exfoliating product – a natural clay or organic oatmeal. Natural skin care products tend to be less irritating and will not only exfoliate the grime and pollution of the day from your delicate facial skin, they also moisturize, soften, and increase your body’s collagen and antioxidant production.

3. Moisturize - Use a dry skin care anti aging lotion each morning after cleansing. Excellent high quality moisturizers not only replace vital moisture in your face but leave it soft and smooth. Additional moisture will also supplement the antioxidants your skin needs to produce to stay looking healthy and young. If you use an SPF of in your moisturizer or foundation, it will also help protect your face from sun damage throughout the day.

One more thing…

The goal of your skin care routine is to address wrinkles, dark spots and dryness with products that deliver lighting, moisturizing and anti-wrinkle ingredients.
It’s not enough to get a facial to keep your skin clear and beautiful. You need to have a great home skin-care routine. I never hurts, to get a professional facial to deep cleanse your skin at least four times a year, as the seasons change. Every 4-6 weeks is ideal. But please, throw away the grocery-store soap and use quality skin care products that are right for your skin type. Also, if it still has to be said, wear sunscreen, even on cloudy days and in the winter. Use a good quality, high-SPF sunscreen. Sun damage is the single most important cause of premature aging. Last, if you have a tendency to engage in skin-damaging habits like smoking, excessive drinking, and tanning booths, please try to reduce or eliminate these habits altogether.

Remember, you want your skin to reflect and shine the beauty that we know you already are on the inside. Make all those years of wisdom and experience show on the outside as well.

Sun Safety for Skiers

Higher altitude means increased levels of harmful UV exposure compared to sea level areas. UV exposure increases 8-10 percent with every 1,000 feet above sea level. At an altitude of 9-10,000 feet, UV may be 45-50 percent more intense than at sea level. In addition, snow reflects about 80 percent of the UV light from the sun, meaning that you are often hit by the same rays twice. This only contributes to the problem, further increasing the risk for skin cancer.

The combination of higher altitude and ultraviolet (UV) rays reflected by the snow puts skiers and snowboarders at an increased risk of sun damage and ultimately, skin cancer. More than 90 percent of all skin cancers are caused by sun exposure. It’s easy to associate winter with frostbite and windburn, but most people are unaware that UV rays can be even more damaging on the slopes than on the beach,it’s important to take proper precautions while on the slopes.

Both snow and strong wind can wear away sunscreen and reduce its effectiveness, so you have to take extra precautions. To protect your skin from the bitter cold, heavy winds and winter sun, follow these important sun protection tips:
• Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher whenever you spend time outdoors. Apply 30 minutes before hitting the slopes.Be aware that the sun’s reflection off the snow is strong even on cloudy days.
• Apply sunscreen liberally and evenly to all exposed skin - most skiers and snowboarders do not use enough sunscreen and therefore do not get the maximum protection.
• Use a more moisturizing sunscreen. Winter conditions can be particularly harsh on the skin.
• Be sure to cover often-missed spots: lips, ears, around eyes, neck, underside of chin, scalp and hands.
• Always wear a lip balm with an SPF 15 or higher. Lips are even more sensitive than most parts of the skin.
• Reapply at least every two hours, and more often after sweating or exposure to wind and snow.
• Carry a travel-sized sunscreen and lip balm with you on the slopes. Reapply on the chairlift, especially after a long, snow-blown run.

Cover up.

• Wear items like ski masks, which will cover most of the skin, leaving very little exposed to the wind and sun.
• UV-blocking sunglasses or goggles that offer 100% UV protection and have wraparound or large frames protect your eyelids and the sensitive skin around your eyes, common sites for skin cancer and sun-induced aging. The sun’s rays and glare can impair your vision, so it’s important to wear sunglasses or goggles to clearly see the terrain. Plus, it will increase your enjoyment and performance while skiing.
Be mindful of time spent in the sun, regardless of the season.
• Keep track of the time you spend in full sunlight. If possible, ski early in the morning and later on in the day, before 10AM and after 4PM. This helps avoid long lines and decreases the amount of time spent outdoors in the most intense hours of sunlight.

• If you are on the slopes for most of the day, take a few breaks indoors to reapply sunscreen.
• Drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration from the sun.
Enjoy the winter season, but be sure to take care of your skin to avoid the damage the cold season can cause. The first organization in the U.S committed to educating the public and medical professionals about sun safety, The Skin Cancer Foundation is still the only global organization solely devoted to the prevention, detection and treatment of skin cancer. The mission of the Foundation is to decrease the incidence of skin cancer through public and professional education and research.