Skin Care Ingredients to Avoid

Many consumers are frustrated by skin care products that don’t do what they claim to. Worse still is investing in an expensive yet ineffective cream or treatment only to discover the cheapest drug-store brand would work just as well. In a world of hyper-consumerism, false advertising and a plethora of products from which to choose, how do you choose the good from the bad?

There are some great products on the market that can genuinely improve your skin’s appearance and help your skin look smoother, more radiant, and youthful. But, there are literally thousands of products to choose from and unless you spend hours a day researching beauty products, it’s difficult to find the one of the few that actually produces real results and eliminates years of aging from your face and body.

As the law of supply and demand proves, the higher the demand for youth and beauty, the more manufacturers will rush to provide the solution. Many times this rush results in the creation of an inferior product with little to no research and development to back it.

Caveat Emptor – or “let the buyer beware” - is the rule to live by. Do your homework. Know where you are “voting” your hard-earned money. If it is important to you, make sure you are investing in a quality, skincare ingredient backed by proven results. If the environment and being ‘green’ is important to you, then be aware of the manufacturing practices of the company and product you support with your purchase.

Ingredients to Avoid

Due to certain preservative requirements, many skin care products are unfortunately loaded with ingredients that actually harm your skin over time. Following are a few prominent ingredients widely used in skincare products to day and are to be avoided if you prefer you skincare to be more natural or organic.

• Mineral Oil. This oil has been used in literally hundreds of products. Mineral oil may also go by the alternative names liquid paraffin, paraffin wax and petrolatum on the product label. Mineral oil is used pervasively in skin care products as a moisturizing agent due to its low cost.

Mineral oil, once applied, is meant to ‘trap’ moisture in the skin, but once applied, actually prevents the skin from “breathing.” As such, it clogs pores, interferes with your skin’s natural ability to eliminate toxins, and can lead to acne flare ups. Also, it is irritating to the skin and if used for any length of time, your skin can become dependent on it, causing chapping and dryness. Lastly, it can lead to premature aging of the skin.

• Dioxane: (a synthetic derivative of coconut). This substance is widely used in skincare products. It often contains high concentrations of 1,4-dioxane, which is readily absorbed through the skin. In the State of California, 1,4-dioxane has been reported as “known to cause cancer.”

• Fragrances: No one wants to smell bad, but if you want to be on the safe side, you are better off choosing an organic essential oil or diluted cologne, hydrosol or even a bodyspray. Your skin care products typically contain chemically engineered fragrances to mask the unpleasant “chemical odor” of the foundational product itself. Many of these masking fragrances are produced from ingredients that are known to be toxic or carcinogenic.

Your skin is the largest organ of the body. Anything you put on it can be easily absorbed through the pores. When you use skin care products, they are typically applied all over the face, neck, and body. This covers a lot of surface area and, therefore, a great deal of chemical absorption occurs. However, with perfumes and colognes, you can achieve what you want by a small dab here and there, which will result in less chemical absorption overall. If you really want a beauty product to smell great without the harsh side effects, try buying a fragrance-free product and add your own essential oil blend. You can customize a whole line of products with you won signature scent!

• Parabens: methyl, propyl, butyl, and ethyl paraben. Many skin care products (and moisturizing products) will use parabens as a preservative so their products have a long shelf life. The reason is purely economical. However, studies suggest that they may cause cancer and interfere with the body’s endocrine system, as well as causing allergic reactions and skin rashes.

• Alcohols: ethanol, ethyl alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol and SD alcohol. Not all alcohols have the same properties, but these, which are commonly found in skin care products, are very drying and irritating for the skin. Alcohols such as these strip away the skin’s natural acid mantle, making you more vulnerable to bacteria, moulds and viruses.

Oil Production in the skin

The skin has many oil (sebaceous) glands, which secrete oil that contains wax esters, triglycerides, and squalene - a hydrocarbon that is an intermediate in the formation of cholesterol. These fats (or lipids) form a film that helps keep moisture in the skin. While increased sebum production results in oily skin, the opposite is not always the case, as dry skin can also arise from an impaired skin barrier. Oil production can be affected by diet, stress, and hormones-as well as genetics. In a study of twenty pairs each of identical and nonidentical same-sex twins, identical twins had virtually identical amounts of oil production, while the nonidentical twins had significantly different amounts.

No amount of blotting and scrubbing will “remove” the skin’s oil production, and many of us unknowingly destroy the natural beauty of the skin in pursuit of clarity. The skin’s own sebum mechanism is there to regulate own moisture. Drying your skin profusely with oil-stripping, foaming cleansers, detergents and de-greasers like soap and sulfates, or alcohol-based toners that leave the skin feeling tight (always a sign it’s been stripped), will only cause the skin to “rebound” with excess oiliness and destroy its protective and anti-bacterial “matrix,” leaving it sensitized. By stripping the natural acid mantle of the skin, these deep cleaning products actually make skin more vulnerable to bacteria and inflammation. Dabbing benzoyl peroxide often destroys the beauty of the skin by causing flaking, while more aggressive treatments, such as antibiotics or Accutane can cause a cascade of side-effects.

Acne Terms and Causes

Acne: Words to Know
Androgen:
A male sex hormone found in both males and females.
Anti-androgen:
A drug that slows down the production of androgens.
Antibiotic:
A drug that kills bacteria.
Comedo:
A hard plug that develops in the pores of the skin composed of sebum and dead skin cells. The mildest form of acne.
Comedolytic:
Drugs that break up comedos and open clogged pores.
Isotretinoin:
A drug that decreases sebum production and dries up acne pimples.
Sebum:
An oily material produced by sebaceous glands that keeps the skin moist.
Tretinoin:
A drug that increases the rate at which skin cells are formed and die.
CAUSES
________________________________________
The exact cause of acne is not known, however, several risk factors have been identified.
• Age. Because of the effect of sex hormones, teenagers are quite likely to develop acne.
• Cosmetics. Make-up and hair sprays that contain oils can make acne worse.
• Diet. Acne is not caused by diet, but some foods can make the disease more serious.
• Disease. Hormonal disorders can increase the severity of acne problems in girls.
• Drugs. Acne can develop as a result of using certain drugs, such as tranquilizers, antibiotics, oral contraceptives, and anabolic steroids. Steroids are synthetic hormones that may sometimes be abused by athletes to increase the size of their muscles.
• Environment. Acne can become worse as a result of exposure to oils, greases, and polluted air. Sweating in hot weather can also make the condition worse.
• Gender. Boys are more likely to develop acne and tend to have more serious cases than girls.
• Heredity. Acne is more common in some families than in others.
• Hormonal changes. Acne can flare up during menstruation, pregnancy, and menopause. Menopause is the period in a woman’s life when her body stops producing certain hormones.
• Personal hygiene. Strong soaps, hard scrubbing, and picking at pimples can make acne worse.
• Stress. Emotional stress can contribute to acne.

Side Effects and Conditions Caused By Isotretinoin

Minor discomforts such as dry mouth or nose, dry eyes, dry skin, or itching usually go away as the body adjusts to the drug and do not require medical attention unless they continue or are bothersome.

Other side effects should be brought to a physician’s attention. These include:
• burning, redness, or itching of the eyes
• nosebleeds
• signs of inflammation of the lips, such as peeling, burning, redness or pain

Bowel inflammation is not a common side effect, but it may occur. If any of the following signs of bowel inflammation occur, stop taking isotretinoin immediately and check with a physician:
• pain in the abdomen
• bleeding from the rectum
• severe diarrhea

Conditions Caused By Benzoyl Peroxide and Tretinoin

The most common side effects of antiacne drugs applied to the skin are slight redness, dryness, peeling, and stinging, and a warm feeling to the skin. These problems usually go away as the body adjusts to the drug and do not require medical treatment.
Other side effects should be brought to a physician’s attention. Check with a physician as soon as possible if any of the following side effects occur:

• blistering, crusting, or swelling of the skin
• severe burning or redness of the skin>
• darkening or lightening of the skin (This effect will eventually go away after treatment with an antiacne drug ends.)
• skin rash

Other side effects are possible with any type of antiacne drug. Anyone who has unusual symptoms while using antiacne drugs should get in touch with his or her physician.
Interactions

Patients using antiacne drugs on their skin should tell their physicians if they are using any other prescription or nonprescription (over-the-counter) medicine that they apply to the skin in the same area as the antiacne drug.

Isotretinoin may interact with other medicines. When this happens, the effects of one or both drugs may change or the risk of side effects may be greater. Anyone who takes isotretinoin should let the physician know about all other medicines being used and should ask whether the possible interactions can interfere with drug therapy.

Among the drugs that may interact with isotretinoin are listed below:
• Etretinate (Tegison), used to treat severe psoriasis. Using this medicine with isotretinoin increases side effects.
• Tretinoin (Retin-A, Renova). Using this medicine with isotretinoin increases side effects.
• Vitamin A or any medicine containing vitamin A. Using any vitamin A preparations with isotretinoin increases side effects. Do not take vitamin supplements containing vitamin A while taking isotretinoin.
• Tetracyclines (used to treat infections). Using these medicines with isotretinoin increases the chance of swelling of the brain. Make sure the physician knows if tetracycline is being used to treat acne or another infection.

Parental Concerns

Acne comes at a difficult time, the adolescent years. While mild acne can be treated with over-the-counter medications, more severe acne needs medical attention. Experts advise against a wait-and-see attitude. Treatment options can help control acne and avoid scarring.

Isotretinoin can cause serious birth defects, including mental retardation and physical deformities. This medicine should not be used during pregnancy. Sexually active adolescent females who are able to bear children should not use isotretinoin unless they have very severe acne that has not cleared up with the use of other antiacne drugs. In addition, acne treatments that can dry the skin should be used with caution by people with skin of color.

Laser Acne Treatments

Your skin has an amazing natural ability to regenerate itself and with proper nutrition and a regular cleansing routine, a new layer of skin growth will generally cover any scarring. But in the rare cases where this regeneration does not occur, then a more advanced scar treatment is in order. Always consult with your doctor or dermatologist before beginning any facial treatments to be sure you are not causing further damage. Read more

Acne Symptoms and Treatments

SYMPTOMS

Acne is often not apparent to an observer. Inflamed pores, however, can cause pain or itching. The most troubling aspect of acne for many people is the scarring that can occur. And, while acne may not be very noticeable, individuals tend to be sensitive about their appearance. Teenagers especially may become concerned about the way other people react to them.

DIAGNOSIS

People with acne are often treated by family doctors. More serious cases are referred to a dermatologist (a specialist in skin disorders) or an endocrinologist (a specialist in hormonal disorders).
Because of its appearance, acne is not difficult to diagnose. A doctor takes a complete medical history, which includes questions about skin, diet, medication use, and other factors associated with risk for acne. He or she conducts a physical examination of the face, upper neck, chest, shoulders, back, and other affected areas. The doctor determines the number and type of blemishes, whether they are inflamed or not, whether they are deep or near the surface of the skin, and whether there is scarring or skin discoloration.
Laboratory tests are not done unless the patient appears to have a hormonal disorder. In that case, blood tests and other tests may be ordered. Most insurance plans cover the cost of diagnosing and treating acne.

ANTI-ACNE DRUGS
Brand Name (Generic Name) and their pssible common side effects:

Accutane (isotretinoin) > Dry skin, dry mouth, conjunctivitis
Benzamycin > Dry and itchy skin
Cleocin T (clindamycin phosphate) Dry skin
Desquam-E (benzoyl peroxide) > Itching, red and peeling skin
Erythromycin topical (A/T/S, erycette, t-stat) > Burning, dry skin, hives, red and peeling skin
Minocin (minocycline hydrochloride) > Headache, hives, diarrhea, peeling skin, vomiting
Retin-A (tretinoin) > Darkening of the skin, blistering, crusted, or puffy skin

Alternative Acne Treatments and Prevention

Several surgical or medical treatments may be used to reduce acne or the scars caused by the disease.
• Chemical peel. A chemical known as glycolic acid is first applied to the skin. When it dries, it is peeled off, taking the top layer of skin with it. This treatment helps reduce scarring.

• Collagen injection. Shallow scars are filled in by injecting collagen, a skin protein, beneath the scars.
• Comedo extraction. A special tool is used to remove a comedo from a pore.
• Dermabrasion. The affected skin is first frozen with a chemical spray. Then it is removed with a brush or sandpaper-like instrument.

• Intralesional injection. Anti-inflammatory drugs are injected directly into inflamed pimples.
• Punch grafting. Deep scars are removed and the area repaired with small skin grafts.

Alternative treatments for acne focus on proper hygiene and diet. Patients are advised to keep their skin clean and oil-free. They are also encouraged to eat a well-balanced diet high in fiber, zinc, and raw fruits and vegetables. They should also avoid alcohol, dairy products, caffeine, sugar, smoking, processed foods, and foods high in iodine, such as table salt.

Some doctors recommend the use of herbs to supplement the diet. Some herbs that have been used in the treatment of acne include burdock root, red clover, and milk thistle. Additional nutrients that may help to control acne include B-complex vitamins and chromium. Chinese herbal treatments that are recommended include cnidium seed and honeysuckle flower. Another herbal treatment is tea tree oil. The proper dose of these substances can be recommended by physicians or nutritionists.

Acne cannot be cured. However, it can be controlled in about 60 percent of patients with the drug isotretinoin. Improvement usually takes at least two months, and the problem may recur after treatment has been stopped. Inflammatory acne that results in the formation of scars may require one of the more aggressive treatments already described.

PREVENTION

There are no sure ways to prevent acne. However, the following steps tend to reduce flare-ups ofthe condition:
• Gently wash—do not scrub—the affected areas once or twice every day.
• Avoid rough cleansers.
• Use makeup and skin moisturizers that do not produce comedos.
• Shampoo often and wear hair away from the face.
• Eat a well-balanced diet and avoid foods that trigger flare-ups.
• Give dry pimples a limited amount of sun exposure unless otherwise directed by your doctor.
• Do not pick or squeeze pimples.
• Reduce stress.

Acne Scar Treatments

Hormonal changes and overly active sebaceous (oil) glands that commonly occur in adolescence usually cause acne, however acne can still affect adults as well. Zits, pimples, acne, cystic skin eruptions, blackheads and white heads all fit into the acne skin malady category.

The temptation to squeeze the spots and remove the infected matter, albeit tempting, will not reform your skin to its natural radiance. In fact, secondary infection by bacteria being pushed back into the deeper layers of the skin can cause more pain, inflammation and most likely future scaring. Once the bacteria have been released, it can re-infect the surrounding skin. The facial scars are actually remnants of the bacterial infection caused by ‘procedure.’

The unfair fact is that adult acne will affect 25 percent of men and 50 percent of women in their adult lives. We know that identifying hormonal changes as the main cause of adult acne aren’t entirely proven. There isn’t just one cause. Acne in adult women can be linked to cosmetic use, some hair products and can frequently be brought on by the hormonal fluctuations associated with pregnancy. Certain types of prescription medications can also cause adult acne. Some strains of acne, such as Acne vulgaris, don’t typically show up in adults until midlife. Adult acne also forms differently, whereas adolescent acne begins on the forehead and cheek area, adult acne tends to show more on the chin, jaw line and neck.

With all this new adult acne erupting (pardon the pun) more than before, natural acne and scar treatments are gaining more acceptance as consumers want to make healthier more sustainable choices for their skincare.

Your skin has an amazing natural ability to regenerate itself and a new layer of skin growth will generally cover any scarring, but in the rare cases where this does not occur then a more advanced scar treatment is in order. Always consult with your doctor or dermatologist before beginning any facial treatments to be sure you are not causing further damage.

A healthy, well-balanced diet plays a large role in helping your body and skin to regenerate itself to its optimal condition. Many dermatologists recommend a diet high in natural minerals. These minerals are to maintain the health of the skin cells, which in turn should prevent a further outbreak of acne and repair damaged tissue. Diets, which include plenty of green vegetables, un-cooked vegetables such as carrots, spinach and cucumbers, have also helped many to maintain smooth, blemish-free skin. The idea is to try to create a new fresh layer of skin so that the scars reduced or eradicated.

Are you drinking enough water?

By consuming a regular amount of water daily, you can improve the look of your skin. The average human body is comprised of 60 percent water. Drinking more water, instead of sugar-laden sodas or energy drinks will keep the skin moist and smooth; it will also clear away the dead skin cells, flush toxins and aid in the regeneration of new skin cells. Mixing water with natural ingredients like citrus, fruit or vegetable juices, can also be helpful to exfoliate the skin.

With a proper nutritious diet, vitamins and plenty of water, most see results within a few months. It can take up to a year for acne scars to heal completely. Acne scars do not show up overnight and removing them can take the same amount of time if not more. It takes patience, but with the proper motivation for beautiful, glowing skin, it will be well worth the wait.

Of course, some scars may be so deep as to require dermalogical treatments such as lasers or painful acid peels. Try the natural methods first, as theses procedures can be quite costly. Any effort you make to regenerate your skin naturally will only help the dermatologist’s treatments even further.

Always remember to gently cleanse and moisturize your skin everyday as well. Applying harsh, drying chemicals to your acne will usually cause further inflammation and breakouts. One natural treatment that had shown good results is to mix pure sandalwood oil with rose water, apply it to your scar(s) and leave on the skin overnight. Cleanse face as usual in the morning.

Sun Safety for Skiers

Higher altitude means increased levels of harmful UV exposure compared to sea level areas. UV exposure increases 8-10 percent with every 1,000 feet above sea level. At an altitude of 9-10,000 feet, UV may be 45-50 percent more intense than at sea level. In addition, snow reflects about 80 percent of the UV light from the sun, meaning that you are often hit by the same rays twice. This only contributes to the problem, further increasing the risk for skin cancer.

The combination of higher altitude and ultraviolet (UV) rays reflected by the snow puts skiers and snowboarders at an increased risk of sun damage and ultimately, skin cancer. More than 90 percent of all skin cancers are caused by sun exposure. It’s easy to associate winter with frostbite and windburn, but most people are unaware that UV rays can be even more damaging on the slopes than on the beach,it’s important to take proper precautions while on the slopes.

Both snow and strong wind can wear away sunscreen and reduce its effectiveness, so you have to take extra precautions. To protect your skin from the bitter cold, heavy winds and winter sun, follow these important sun protection tips:
• Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher whenever you spend time outdoors. Apply 30 minutes before hitting the slopes.Be aware that the sun’s reflection off the snow is strong even on cloudy days.
• Apply sunscreen liberally and evenly to all exposed skin - most skiers and snowboarders do not use enough sunscreen and therefore do not get the maximum protection.
• Use a more moisturizing sunscreen. Winter conditions can be particularly harsh on the skin.
• Be sure to cover often-missed spots: lips, ears, around eyes, neck, underside of chin, scalp and hands.
• Always wear a lip balm with an SPF 15 or higher. Lips are even more sensitive than most parts of the skin.
• Reapply at least every two hours, and more often after sweating or exposure to wind and snow.
• Carry a travel-sized sunscreen and lip balm with you on the slopes. Reapply on the chairlift, especially after a long, snow-blown run.

Cover up.

• Wear items like ski masks, which will cover most of the skin, leaving very little exposed to the wind and sun.
• UV-blocking sunglasses or goggles that offer 100% UV protection and have wraparound or large frames protect your eyelids and the sensitive skin around your eyes, common sites for skin cancer and sun-induced aging. The sun’s rays and glare can impair your vision, so it’s important to wear sunglasses or goggles to clearly see the terrain. Plus, it will increase your enjoyment and performance while skiing.
Be mindful of time spent in the sun, regardless of the season.
• Keep track of the time you spend in full sunlight. If possible, ski early in the morning and later on in the day, before 10AM and after 4PM. This helps avoid long lines and decreases the amount of time spent outdoors in the most intense hours of sunlight.

• If you are on the slopes for most of the day, take a few breaks indoors to reapply sunscreen.
• Drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration from the sun.
Enjoy the winter season, but be sure to take care of your skin to avoid the damage the cold season can cause. The first organization in the U.S committed to educating the public and medical professionals about sun safety, The Skin Cancer Foundation is still the only global organization solely devoted to the prevention, detection and treatment of skin cancer. The mission of the Foundation is to decrease the incidence of skin cancer through public and professional education and research.

Benzoyl Peroxide and Tretinoin

When applying antiacne drugs to the skin, people should be careful not to get the medicine in the eyes, mouth, or inside the nose. They should not put the medicine on skin that is wind burned, sunburned, or irritated, and not apply it to open wounds.

Because anti-acne drugs such as benzoyl peroxide and tretinoin irritate the skin slightly, users should avoid doing anything that might cause further irritation. They should wash the face with mild soap and water only two or three times a day, unless the physician says to wash it more often. They should also avoid using abrasive soaps or cleansers and products that might dry the skin or make it peel, such as medicated cosmetics, cleansers that contain alcohol, or other acne products that contain resorcinol, sulfur, or salicylic acid.

If benzoyl peroxide or tretinoin make the skin too red or too dry or cause too much peeling, the user should check with a physician. Using the medicine less often or using a weaker strength may be necessary. Benzoyl peroxide can irritate the skin of people with skin of color and cause darkened spots called hyperpigmentation on the skin. Benzoyl peroxide may discolor hair or colored fabrics.

ORAL DRUGS. Oral antibiotics are taken daily for two to four months. The drugs used include tetracycline, erythromycin, minocycline (Minocin), doxycycline, clindamycin (Cleocin), and trimethoprim-sulfamethoxazole (Bactrim, Septra). Possible side effects include allergic reactions, stomach upset, vaginal yeast infections, dizziness, and tooth discoloration.

The goal of treating moderate acne is to decrease inflammation and prevent new comedones from forming. One effective treatment is topical tretinoin, used along with a topical or oral antibiotic. A combination of topical benzoyl peroxide and erythromycin is also very effective. Improvement is normally seen within four to six weeks, but treatment is maintained for at least two to four months.

Special Conditions

People who have certain medical conditions or who are taking certain other medicines may have problems if they use antiacne drugs. Before using these products, the physician should be informed about any of the following conditions.

ALLERGIES. Anyone who has had unusual reactions to etretinate, isotretinoin, tretinoin, vitamin A preparations, or benzoyl peroxide in the past should let the physician know before using an antiacne drug. The physician should also be told about any allergies to foods, dyes, preservatives, or other substances.

PREGNANCY. Teens who are pregnant or who may become pregnant should check with a physician before using tretinoin or benzoyl peroxide. Isotretinoin causes birth defects in humans and must not be used during pregnancy.

OTHER MEDICAL CONDITIONS. Before using antiacne drugs applied to the skin, people with any of these medical problems should make sure their physicians are aware of their conditions:
• Eczema. Antiacne drugs that are applied to the skin may make this condition worse.
• Sunburn or raw skin. Antiacne drugs that are applied to the skin may increase the pain and irritation of these conditions.

In people with certain medical conditions, isotretinoin may increase the amount of triglyceride (a fatty-substance) in the blood. This may lead to heart or blood vessel problems. Before using isotretinoin, adolescents with any of the following medical problems should make sure their physicians are aware of their conditions:

• alcoholism or heavy drinking, currently or in the past
• diabetes or family history of diabetes (Isotretinoin may change blood sugar levels.)
• family history of high triglyceride levels in the blood
• severe weight problems

Using antiacne drugs with certain other drugs may affect the way the drugs work or may increase the chance of side effects.

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